Rascal + Thorn Coastal Scotland Whisky Tour – July/August 2023

At the end of July and beginning of August 2023, my good friend Charles Grabitzky led a 10-day Rascal + Thorn whisky tour of Coastal Scotland. It was a spectacular trip. For the natural beauty and spiritual impact, my two favorite destinations were Orkney and The Isle of Skye.

We began in Edinburgh; and upon arrival, I headed to The Bow Bar, where my first dram was a winner: Linkwood 12-Yr Matured in a Fresh Tokaji cask (Fragrant Drops).

Day 1 – Glenturret & Ferry from Aberdeen to Orkney

We began our adventure at Glenturret Distillery, the oldest legal distillery in Scotland (founded 1763). Glenturret is owned by the Lalique Group, famous for their glasswork; and the distillery and restaurant were decorated with Lalique crystal. We were guided by two knowledgeable and friendly chaps- Kenny in the distillery and Alex Thompson in the warehouse tasting. Towser, the distillery cat who died in 1987 at age 24, is in the Guinness book of records for most mice caught in a lifetime.

After the tour, we had an amazing lunch at the Michelin two-star Lalique Restaurant at Glenturret:

Non alcoholic cocktail: anise Hyssop, Venjus, soda
Scottish Oysters with kippered mackerel roe. Best oysters ever! Creamy, plump and delicate
Barbecued Padron peppers
Highland wagyu short ribs with local Girolles mushrooms

We then drove to Aberdeen and boarded the ferry to Kirkwall for 6 hours at sea.

Day 2 – Orkney

We started our day at the Stones of Stenness, a group of Neolithic stone monuments 1000 years older than Stonehenge, and then on to the nearby Ring of Brodgar and Skara Brae, where we walked through a Neolithic city from 5000 years ago. Skara Brae is the best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe. All three sites are part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. It was powerful, peaceful, and spiritual. It’s difficult to put into words or to capture with pictures how moving it was to be there. You need to visit!

We then had a lovely lunch at Birsay Bay Tearoom, followed by a very special tasting and tour at Scapa Distillery. The tasting room at Scapa is breathtaking. The ceiling is designed to look like the hull of a Viking ship.

We then ate dinner at The Foveran restaurant, and ended our evening with two different delicious drams of cask-strength Highland Park whisky at The Royal Cask Whisky Gin Bar.

Day 3 – Orkney

In the morning, we drove along the east coast and went to “The Great Wall of Deerness” and The Gloup at the Mull Head Nature Preserve. Then, we ventured south to Windwick Bay for a picnic lunch.

After lunch, following a decade of yearning to visit, I finally made it to Highland Park Distillery.

We followed that with a tasty tapas dinner at Twenty-One in Kirkwall; and then a sunset stroll along the hills and harbor.

Day 4 – Back to the mainland

In the morning, we took the ferry from Stromness (Orkney) to Thurso (Highlands). We had lunch at Tasty Toes – Shellfish to Go, overlooking Dunbeath Castle. Then, we toured Clynelish Distillery.

After that, we took a tour of Dunrobin Castle. And, we ended our day with drinks and dinner at Dornoch Castle Hotel.

Day 5 – Culloden & Skye

In the morning, we visited Culloden Battlefield (site of the final battle in the failed 1745-46 Jacobite Rising against the government, where over 1500 Jacobites and 50 government soldiers died in less than 1 hour). Despite the fact that there is not much to see on the battlefield, it was a powerfully moving experience. This battle was a key catalyst for the development of the Scottish diaspora.

We then drove to Skye, passing Eilean Donan Castle, a 13th-century castle, along the way.

Day 6 – Isle of Skye

Skye is unlike any place I’d previously been. The natural beauty is magical. I’m amazed by how quickly the landscape changes from dense old-growth pine forest to seaside to tundra to glacial mountains. There are abundant waterfalls, streams and lakes. The scenery brought me to tears. Next time, I think I may stay for a week and rent a kayak.

We had a very busy day. We began with a tour of Dunvegan Castle, home of the chiefs of Clan MacLeod for 800 years.

We then drove west on Skye to the Niest Point Lighthouse. Along the way, we encountered some very frisky sheep who blocked the road.

We then had a wonderful lunch at The Three Chimneys.

Loch Dunvegan Crab with almonds ginger and yogurt sauce

After lunch, we headed over to Talisker Distillery, made by the sea! Great tour, and tasty whisky. I hand-filled my own bottle, fully-matured for 9 years in a rejuvenated ex-red-wine cask

And, then we enjoyed fresh oysters at The Oyster Shed.

Day 7 – Ardnamurchan & Tobermory

A Cruise, Views, Booze, Another Cruise, More Views and More Booze

We took an early morning ferry from the Isle of Skye to the Ardnamurchan Peninsula and visited the Ardnamurchan Distillery. Thank you Jenny, Carl and Stewart for an amazing visit! The Ardnamurchan peninsula is a remote and sparsely populated region. Some of the topology seemed Mediterranean; some seemed alpine; and some was dense forest with lots of ferns. And there was abundant water.

We then took a ferry from Ardnamurchan to Tobermory on the Isle of Mull and visited Tobermory Distillery. Tobermory is a seaside village with fishing, sailing, tourists and beautifully-colored houses.

Day 8 – Isle of Mull & Oban

We hung out around Tobermory in the morning and then took the ferry from Craignure to Oban.

While waiting for the ferry, we were parked next to the spirit tanker that we saw filling in the morning at Tobermory; and peated Ledaig new-make spirit wafted over in the breeze.

Oban is a seaside town with a focus on fishing and whisky. It looks a bit like a miniature San Francisco with hills, winding streets, fishing boats and tourists. The Oban Distillery began operating in 1794 when few people lived in Oban; and the town developed surrounding it. The Whisky Vaults Hotel, around the corner from the distillery, has an awesome bar.

Day 9 – Campbeltown

Whisky, whisky and more whisky.

We woke at the crack of dawn and drove south from Oban to Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula. Rumor has it that Paul McCartney lives on his farm near Campbeltown; but, despite my best efforts, I wasn’t able to find him.

At Glen Scotia Distillery, Hannah Young was our tour guide- she was best educator I’ve had in 70+ distillery tours, providing clear explanations and an engaging presentation.

At Springbank Distillery, Finlay was our very entertaining guide. Springbank is old school; and they are the only Scottish distillery that malts 100% of their barley on site.

The Cadenhead’s Warehouse Tasting, led by the knowledgeable Andrew, was awesome: 6 different cask-strength drams.

Day 10 – The Artisan & Laddie Snug

We drove from Campbeltown back to Edinburgh and dropped off the tour group. Charles and I then headed to Wishaw for the evening, where we had a phenomenal time with our friends and hosts Derek and Fiona Mather at The Artisan and the Laddie Snug. I drank 56 years of delicious Scotch Whisky (and had a wonderful Bruichladdich Octomore Burger for dinner). A great finale to a great trip.